Straight answers. No pool-store guesswork.

Las Vegas heat, sun, wind, and low humidity can cause substantial evaporation. The bucket test is the best first comparison: place a bucket of pool water on a step, mark both levels, and compare the change over 24 hours under the same conditions.

We combine pressure testing, electronic listening equipment, dye testing, and camera inspection. The pool stays full for nearly every detection. Draining is rare and only used as a last resort.

Most detections take one to two hours on site. Complex cases with multiple leaks or underground plumbing involvement can take longer, but we'll flag that early in the visit so there are no surprises.

Testing can still provide a useful answer when plumbing and shell checks hold. The result may point to evaporation, splash-out, an autofill issue, an intermittent equipment leak, or the need for longer water-loss monitoring.

Yes. The pool shell can be intact while a buried suction, return, cleaner, spa, or water-feature line loses water underground. That is why plumbing circuits are pressure-tested separately.

Spas pack more plumbing, jets, and equipment into a smaller footprint, which can make leaks trickier to localize, but the same detection techniques apply. We detect spa leaks just as efficiently as pool leaks.

We focus on built-in spas: in-ground spas, raised spas, and pool-attached systems. Portable hot tub shell and electronics work generally falls outside the service scope.

Cracked spa shells, failed jet fittings, leaking heater unions, deteriorated PVC fittings, light niches, and underground spa plumbing can all cause water loss.

Most spa leaks at jets, fittings, and heater unions are same-day repairs. Shell cracks and underground plumbing typically require a return visit.

A leaking skimmer often shows up as water loss that stops at a specific level, usually right at the bottom of the skimmer mouth. You may also see soggy ground or a deck crack near the skimmer. Common fixes are crack repair, plastic skimmer replacement, and reseating.

Yes. The light niche is a wet-side fitting, and the conduit running back to the junction box is a known leak path. Water can travel through the conduit and exit through electrical penetrations elsewhere on the deck. Light niche leaks are one of the more common hidden sources.

Pump leaks (shaft seals, unions, housings), filter leaks (multiport valves, tank o-rings, drain plugs), heater leaks (manifolds, headers, pressure switches), valve leaks, and plumbing leaks at the equipment pad.

Depends on the age of the unit, the part that's failing, and the cost gap. We give you both options with honest pricing. We're not working off a quota to push new equipment when a $40 seal will do the job.

A dripping shaft seal is a sign the seal is failing, and the motor is at risk if water reaches the bearings. The same applies to unions and housings: a small equipment-pad drip is easier to address before it damages nearby components.